Chemise with Thin Straps (Lace-Trim Slip Dress)

 

Chemise with Thin Straps (Lace-Trim Slip Dress)

Pattern pieces: Front (1x on fold), Back (1x on fold), Bias armhole binding (2x), Bias front neckline binding (1x), Straps (2x)

Fabric needed: 1.60 m of mousseline, silk-touch satin, or similar drapey fabric
Notions: 35 cm elastane/elastic for back neckline, 1 pair strap adjusters, lace trim (for neckline and hem as shown in sketch)

Pattern Measurements

FRONT (cut 1 on fold)
• Top width: 22 cm
• Strap/neckline point: 9 cm to "L" mark
• Left shoulder drop: 4.5 cm
• Right shoulder drop: 6 cm
• Neckline curve shaping: 2.5 cm and 2 cm (dashed guideline)
• Total length: 69 cm
• Side hem shaping: 17 cm
• Bottom hem width: 8 cm
• Grainline: fold and grainline of fabric runs vertically down the center

BACK (cut 1 on fold)

• Top width: 22 cm
• Back neckline drop: 2 cm
• Side length: 63 cm
• Side hem shaping: 17 cm
• Bottom hem width: 8 cm
• Grainline: fold and grainline of fabric runs vertically down the center

BIAS ARMHOLES (cut 2x)
• Length: 14 cm
• Width: 3 cm

BIAS FINISHING FRONT NECKLINE (cut 1x)
• Length: 21 cm
• Width: 3 cm
• "Dobra" = fold line marked at top

STRAPS (cut 2x)
• Length: 54 cm
• Width: 3 cm
• Already folded with 0.5 cm margin (i.e., cut fabric wider, fold in edges by 0.5 cm before final fold)

How to Cut

1. Fold your fabric along the grainline as marked on both Front and Back pieces.
2. Cut the Front on the fold — 1 piece total, following the shaped shoulder/neckline curve (4.5 cm and 6 cm drops with the 2.5 cm/2 cm curve detail) down to the 69 cm length, tapering out at the 17 cm side shaping to the 8 cm hem width.
3. Cut the Back on the fold — 1 piece total, with the shallower 2 cm neckline drop, 63 cm length, tapering the same way to an 8 cm hem width.
4. Cut 2 bias strips for the armholes, 14 cm × 3 cm each, on the bias grain (diagonal to the fabric weave) so they stretch to bind the curved armhole cleanly.
5. Cut 1 bias strip for the front neckline finishing, 21 cm × 3 cm, also on the bias.
6. Cut 2 strap strips, 54 cm × 3 cm, with a 0.5 cm folded margin built in on each long edge (so when folded in half lengthwise, raw edges tuck inside).
7. Cut a 35 cm length of elastane/elastic for the back neckline casing.
8. If adding lace trim (as shown in the sketch), cut lace strips to match the front neckline length and the hem circumference, plus a little extra for gathering ease.

How to Stitch

1. Prepare the straps
◦ Fold each 54 cm strap strip in half lengthwise using the pre-folded 0.5 cm margins, enclosing raw edges.
◦ Topstitch close to the open edge to close each strap into a clean, finished tube/strip.
◦ Thread each strap through a strap adjuster before attaching, so length is adjustable.

1. Join Front and Back at side seams
◦ With right sides together, stitch the Front to the Back along both side seams, matching the hem taper (17 cm shaping down to 8 cm) on each side.
◦ Press side seams open.

1. Finish the armholes
◦ Apply the 2 bias armhole strips (14 × 3 cm) around each armhole opening, right side to right side.
◦ Fold the bias binding to the inside, press, and topstitch or slipstitch in place for a clean, stretchy finish.

1. Finish the front neckline
◦ Attach the 21 cm bias strip to the front neckline (the shaped 9 cm/2.5 cm/2 cm curved area).
◦ Fold to the inside, press, and stitch down. If adding lace trim, sandwich the lace edge into this binding or topstitch lace over the finished edge, following the V-shape shown in the sketch.

1. Finish the back neckline with elastic
◦ Fold the back neckline edge to create a casing (following the 2 cm marked drop).
◦ Thread the 35 cm elastane through the casing, securing both ends with a bar tack or box stitch — this keeps the back neckline snug against the body while the front hangs looser with lace trim.

1. Attach the straps
◦ Position each finished strap at the front "L" mark point and the corresponding back shoulder point.
◦ Try on or check against the sketch (crossed/adjustable straps at the back) and stitch securely at both front and back attachment points, reinforcing with a box-stitch for strength.

1. Hem the bottom
◦ Fold up a small hem allowance along the bottom edge (from the 8 cm width points on both Front and Back).
◦ Stitch a narrow rolled hem, or attach lace trim along the bottom edge as shown in the sketch — sew lace right side to right side, then fold down and topstitch for a delicate finished edge.

1. Final press and check
◦ Press all seams flat.
◦ Try the adjusters on the straps to confirm fit, and give the whole chemise a final steam press for a smooth, finished drape.