Jacket with Collar and Buttons (G2) — Unisex Denim/Twill Jacket

 

Jacket with Collar and Buttons (G2) — Unisex Denim/Twill Jacket

Fabric needed: 2.20 m of Twill, Canvas, or Denim
Note: This pattern does NOT include seam allowance — add 1–1.5 cm to every edge when cutting.

Pattern pieces: Front (2x), Back (2x), Sleeve (2x), Collar (2x), Placket/Sleeve Opening Bias (2x fold), Waistband (1x fold), Lower Pocket (2x), Upper Pocket (2x), Upper Pocket Flap (2x), Lower Pocket Flap (2x), Cuff (2x fold)

Pattern Measurements

FRONT (cut 2 — mirrored pair)
• Total width: 35 cm (10 cm collar stand + 16.5 cm shoulder + 4 cm)
• Total height: 66 cm
• Armhole depth: 9 cm to shoulder curve, 31 cm to underarm
• Hem width: 35 cm
• Bottom allowance: 3 cm
• Includes marked positions for upper chest pocket (with flap) and lower hip pocket, both patch-style

BACK (cut 2 — joined at center back seam, or 1 on fold if no back seam)
• Total width: 35 cm (11 cm + 16.5 cm + 4 cm shoulder/neck shaping)
• Neck/shoulder drop: 4.2 cm, 0.5 cm, 1 cm shaping marks
• Total height: 68 cm
• Armhole depth: 33 cm
• Hem width: 35 cm

SLEEVE (cut 2)
• Total width: 52 cm
• Sleeve cap height: 17.5 cm, with 3 cm/3 cm shoulder points and 1.5 cm/4 cm front-back offset
• Total length: 65.5 cm
• Cuff width: 8 cm on each side
• Underarm marking: 11 cm

COLLAR (cut 2 on fold/grain)
• Length: 26 cm total, tapering with a 2.5 cm angled edge
• Width: 9 cm (with dobra/fold allowance)
• Center fold width: 13 cm

PLACKET / SLEEVE OPENING BIAS (cut 2, on fold)
• Length: 23 cm
• Width: 2 cm

WAISTBAND (cut 1, on fold)
• Length: 146 cm
• Width: 10 cm

LOWER POCKET (cut 2)

• Width: 16 cm
• Height: 18 cm

UPPER POCKET (cut 2)
• Width: 12.5 cm
• Height: 13.5 cm

UPPER POCKET FLAP (cut 2)
• Width: 12.5 cm, tapering to point
• Height: 5 cm + 2.5 cm point

LOWER POCKET FLAP (cut 2)
• Width: 16 cm, tapering to point
• Height: 5 cm + 2.5 cm point

CUFF (cut 2, on fold, with buttonhole "H" marked)
• Length: 36 cm
• Width: 5 cm, with 5 cm button placement marks

How to Cut

1. Add seam allowance (1–1.5 cm) to every pattern piece before cutting — this pattern is drafted without it.
2. Front — cut 2 (left and right, mirrored), following the shoulder curve, marking pocket placement lines (dashed) for both the upper chest pocket and lower hip pocket, and the placket fold line down the center front.
3. Back — cut 2, matching the shoulder/neck curve to the front, joining at center back if there's a back seam (or cut 1 on fold if seamless).
4. Sleeves — cut 2, using the curved cap shaping (front side has less curve/offset than back side — mind the front/back labels so sleeves aren't mixed up).
5. Collar — cut 2 on the fold/grainline shown, tapering to the angled point at one end.
6. Placket/Sleeve Opening Bias — cut 2 strips on the fold, used both for the front placket facing and sleeve opening finish.
7. Waistband — cut 1 long strip (146 cm) on the fold — this wraps the entire jacket hem.
8. Pockets — cut 2 lower pockets and 2 upper pockets, plus 2 flaps for each (upper and lower), all with their pointed flap shaping.
9. Cuffs — cut 2 on the fold, marking the buttonhole (H) and button placement points.
10. Cut a collar/cuff faux-fur or sherpa lining strip separately if replicating the shearling collar shown in the color sketch — sized to match your collar piece.

How to Stitch

1. Prep the pockets first
◦ Fold and press the top edge of each Upper and Lower Pocket (hem finish), then fold under the remaining 3 sides.
◦ Attach the Upper Pocket Flaps and Lower Pocket Flaps: stitch right sides together, turn, press, and topstitch each flap closed along the point.
◦ Topstitch pockets onto the Front pieces at the marked dashed positions — upper pocket near the chest, lower pocket at the hip — then attach the flaps above each pocket.

1. Front placket
◦ Apply the placket bias strip along the center front opening edge on both front pieces.
◦ Fold, press, and topstitch to create a clean, reinforced button/buttonhole placket.

1. Shoulder seams
◦ With right sides together, stitch Front to Back at both shoulder seams. Press open.

1. Collar
◦ Stitch the 2 collar pieces right sides together along the outer edge, leaving the neckline edge open.
◦ Turn right side out, press flat, and topstitch around the finished edges.
◦ Attach the collar to the neckline, matching center back and front points, sandwiching it between the outer shell and a neckline facing if used. If replicating the shearling look, sandwich a strip of faux fur/sherpa fabric into this seam.

1. Set in the sleeves
◦ Match the sleeve cap curve (noting the front/back offset — 1.5 cm front, 4 cm back) to the corresponding armhole.
◦ Pin and stitch sleeve into the armhole, easing the cap curve smoothly. Repeat for both sides.

1. Side and underarm seams
◦ Stitch continuously from the sleeve cuff opening down through the underarm to the side seam and hem, right sides together, on both sides.

1. Cuffs
◦ Fold each cuff piece in half (on the marked fold line), stitch the short ends.
◦ Turn right side out, press, and attach to the sleeve opening, matching the placket bias finish at the sleeve slit.
◦ Sew the buttonhole (marked "H") and attach the button on the opposite cuff edge.

1. Waistband
◦ Fold the long waistband strip in half lengthwise (on the fold), press.
◦ Attach it to the bottom hem edge of the jacket (Front + Back joined), right sides together, all the way around.
◦ Fold to the inside and topstitch in place, matching the front placket opening cleanly at both front edges.

1. Buttons and buttonholes
◦ Mark and stitch evenly spaced buttonholes down the front placket (matching spacing style shown in the color sketch — roughly 6 buttons plus flap/cuff buttons).
◦ Sew matching buttons on the opposite placket, on both pocket flaps, and on the cuffs.

1. Final topstitching and press
◦ Topstitch all major seams (shoulders, side seams, collar edge, waistband, cuffs) for the classic structured denim-jacket finish shown in the sketch.
◦ Give the finished jacket a final press, paying attention to the collar and cuffs for a crisp, tailored look.