Basic Shirt Pattern (Size L) Complete Measurement Guide, Cutting & Stitching Tutorial

Basic Shirt Pattern (Size L) Complete Measurement Guide, Cutting & Stitching Tutorial

Want to sew a classic, well-structured men's/unisex shirt at home? This Basic Shirt Pattern (Size L) gives you all the pattern pieces you need — Front, Back, Sleeve, Chest Pocket, Cuff, and Placket — with every measurement listed in both centimeters and inches. Below is the full measurement breakdown along with a step-by-step cutting and stitching guide.

⚠️ Important Note: Always double-check whether your pattern includes seam allowance before cutting. If not, add 1–1.5 cm (0.4–0.6 in) around all edges before cutting your fabric.

1. Front Pattern Measurements


Detail
cm
inches

Shoulder width
31 cm
12.2 in

Neck width
7.5 cm
3.0 in

Neck drop
4 cm
1.6 in

Shoulder slope
2.5 cm
1.0 in

Shoulder to armhole (across shoulder)
16.5 cm
6.5 in

Armhole depth
24 cm
9.4 in

Side seam (armhole to waist)
16.5 cm
6.5 in

Side seam (waist to hem)
21 cm
8.3 in

Full front length
75 cm
29.5 in

Hem width
31 cm
12.2 in

Pocket width
13 cm
5.1 in

Pocket depth (side)
14 cm
5.5 in

Pocket depth (center, to point)
15 cm
5.9 in



2. Back Pattern Measurements


Detail
cm
inches

Shoulder width
31 cm
12.2 in

Neck width
7.5 cm
3.0 in

Neck to yoke line
10 cm
3.9 in

Shoulder to armhole (across shoulder)
16.5 cm
6.5 in

Armhole depth
28 cm
11.0 in

Side seam (armhole to waist)
16.5 cm
6.5 in

Side seam (waist to hem)
21 cm
8.3 in

Full back length
79 cm
31.1 in

Hem side allowance
5 cm
2.0 in



3. Sleeve Pattern Measurements


Detail
cm
inches

Sleeve cap width
46 cm
18.1 in

Sleeve cap height
13 cm
5.1 in

Sleeve length
62 cm
24.4 in

Cuff opening/placket allowance
12 cm
4.7 in



4. Cuff & Placket Measurements


Piece
Width
Length
End tabs

Cuff
4 cm / 1.6 in
22 cm / 8.7 in
1.5 cm / 0.6 in (both ends)

Placket
3 cm / 1.2 in
24 cm / 9.4 in
1.5 cm / 0.6 in (both ends)



How to Cut the Fabric

1. Pre-wash and press your fabric before cutting so the finished shirt doesn't shrink or shift later.
2. Fold the fabric right sides together along the grainline for symmetrical cutting of the Front and Back pieces.
3. Lay out the pattern pieces:
◦ Front: cut 2 (mirrored — left and right front), on the fold if it's a yoke-free front, or as two separate mirrored panels for a button-front shirt.
◦ Back: cut 1 on the fold (center back), unless your design has a back yoke seam.
◦ Sleeve: cut 2 (mirrored).
◦ Pocket: cut 1–2 depending on your design (chest pocket).
◦ Cuff: cut 2 (one per sleeve), fold pattern for a double-layer cuff.
◦ Placket: cut 2 (one per sleeve opening).
4. Add seam allowance (1–1.5 cm / 0.4–0.6 in) to all raw edges — shoulders, armholes, side seams, hems, and pocket edges — if not already included.
5. Mark notches: transfer shoulder points, armhole curve notches, and pocket placement onto the fabric using tailor's chalk.
6. Cut all pieces carefully following the traced outlines.

How to Stitch the Shirt

Step 1: Attach the Chest Pocket
• Fold and press the pocket edges (13 cm width, 14–15 cm depth) under by the seam allowance.
• Press the top edge of the pocket down first as a facing, then fold the sides and bottom point under.
• Topstitch the pocket onto the left front panel at your desired placement, stitching close to the folded edge.

Step 2: Sew the Shoulder Seams
• Place Front and Back pieces right sides together at the shoulders.
• Stitch along the 16.5 cm shoulder seam on both sides.
• Press seams open or toward the back.

Step 3: Attach the Collar (if applicable)
• If your design includes a collar, attach the collar stand to the neckline (7.5 cm neck width, 4 cm front neck drop, 10 cm back neck drop) before proceeding to sleeves.
• Understitch to keep the collar sitting flat.

Step 4: Attach the Sleeves
• With right sides together, match the sleeve cap (46 cm width, 13 cm height) to the armhole (24 cm front / 28 cm back armhole depth), aligning shoulder seam to the sleeve cap's highest point.
• Ease the sleeve cap fullness evenly, then stitch the armhole seam.
• Press seam allowance toward the sleeve.

Step 5: Sew Side Seams (Body + Sleeve Together)
• With right sides together, stitch continuously from the sleeve cuff opening, down the underarm, and along the side seam to the hem in one pass.
• Repeat for both sides.
• Press seams open.

Step 6: Finish the Sleeve Placket
• Cut a slit at the sleeve hem opening (12 cm) where the placket will go.
• Attach the placket strip (3 cm width, 24 cm length) around the slit, folding and stitching to enclose the raw edges — this reinforces the opening and gives a clean finish for the cuff.

Step 7: Attach the Cuffs
• Gather or pleat the sleeve hem opening to fit the cuff length (22 cm cuff body).
• With right sides together, stitch the cuff (4 cm width) to the sleeve hem, sandwiching the raw edge inside.
• Topstitch around the cuff to finish, and add a buttonhole + button for closure.

Step 8: Sew the Side Seam & Hem
• Stitch the remaining body side seams if not already done in Step 5.
• Fold and press the hem, then stitch around the entire bottom edge of the shirt.

Step 9: Add Buttons and Buttonholes
• Mark and sew buttonholes down the front placket, spacing them evenly from the collar to the hem.
• Sew matching buttons on the opposite front panel.

Step 10: Final Pressing
• Press the entire shirt — collar, cuffs, seams, and hem — for a crisp, professional finish.
• Trim any loose threads and check all seams for strength.
Final Tips
• Use a contrast thread while basting to make it easy to remove temporary stitches later.
• For a crisp collar and cuffs, use fusible interfacing on those pieces before stitching.
• Always test the sleeve cap ease on a scrap piece first — even distribution avoids puckering at the shoulder.

Happy sewing! 🧵👔