Basic Woman's Blouse Pattern (XL) Full Measurement Guide, Cutting & Stitching Tutorial

 

Basic Woman's Blouse Pattern (XL) Full Measurement Guide, Cutting & Stitching Tutorial

If you're looking to sew a well-fitted basic blouse at home, this Basic Woman's Blouse Pattern (Size XL) is a great starting block. It includes the Front (Depan) , Back (Belakang) , and Sleeve pattern pieces, with every measurement given in both centimeters and inches. Below you'll find the complete measurement breakdown along with step-by-step cutting and stitching instructions.

⚠️ Important Note: This pattern is measured to fit the body — it does not include seam allowance. Add your own seam allowance (usually 1–1.5 cm / 0.4–0.6 in) around every edge before cutting your fabric.

Overall Body Measurements (XL)


Measurement
cm
inches

Bust Circumference
108 cm
42.5 in

Shoulder
27 cm
10.6 in



1. Front Pattern Measurements


Detail
cm
inches

Neck drop
9 cm
3.5 in

Neck width
7.5 cm
—

Shoulder to armhole point
12.5 cm
—

Front width (upper)
14.5 cm
—

Armhole depth
14.5 cm
—

Chest width
24 cm
—

Waist width
19 cm
—

Hip width
20 cm
—

Side seam
1.5 cm
—

Dart width
3 cm
1.2 in

Dart apex (bust point distance)
10 cm
3.9 in

Dart length
10–12 cm
3.9–4.7 in

Bust point spacing
11–13 cm
—



2. Back Pattern Measurements


Detail
cm
inches

Shoulder/back width (top)
27 cm
—

Neck width
7.5 cm
—

Shoulder to armhole point
12.5 cm
—

Center back neck drop
0.5 cm
—

Chest width
24 cm
—

Waist width
17 cm
—

Hip width
20 cm
—

Side seam
1.5 cm
—

Back length
41 cm
—

Hip Depth (Center Back)
20 cm
7.9 in

Dart width
2 cm
0.8 in



3. Sleeve Pattern Measurements


Detail
cm
inches

Sleeve length
38 cm
15.0 in

Sleeve width (total)
59 cm
—

Cuff sections
13 + 13 cm
5.1 + 5.1 in

Armhole curve height
7.5 cm
—

Sleeve cap depth
14 cm
—

Sleeve cap width
14 cm
5.5 in

Underarm curve
1.5 cm / 0.5 cm
—



How to Cut the Fabric

1. Prepare your fabric: Pre-wash and iron your fabric so it doesn't shrink after the blouse is finished.
2. Fold the fabric: Fold the fabric in half, right sides together, along the grainline (this lets you cut symmetrical Front and Back pieces in one go).
3. Place the pattern pieces:
◦ Place the Front (Depan) piece on the fold at the center front line.
◦ Place the Back (Belakang) piece on the fold at the center back line.
◦ Place the Sleeve piece on a single layer (cut 2 sleeves, mirrored).
4. Add seam allowance: Since this pattern does not include seam allowance, trace around each pattern piece and add 1–1.5 cm (0.4–0.6 in) extra on all edges — armholes, shoulders, side seams, and hems.
5. Mark the darts: Transfer the bust dart (Front) and waist dart (Back) onto the fabric using tailor's chalk or tracing paper — mark the dart apex, width, and length exactly as shown in the pattern.
6. Cut the pieces: Cut 1 Front piece (on fold), 1 Back piece (on fold), and 2 Sleeve pieces.

───

How to Stitch the Blouse

Step 1: Sew the Darts
• Fold each dart (front bust dart and back waist dart) with right sides together, matching the marked lines.
• Stitch from the wide edge down to a sharp point at the apex — do not backstitch at the tip; instead, tie off the thread by hand for a smooth point.
• Press the darts downward (bust dart) or toward the center (waist dart).

Step 2: Join Shoulder Seams
• Place Front and Back pieces right sides together, matching shoulder edges.
• Stitch the shoulder seams (7.5 cm neck width + 12.5 cm shoulder slope on both sides).
• Press seams open.

Step 3: Join Side Seams
• With right sides together, pin the Front and Back pieces along the side seams, matching the underarm point, waist, and hip.
• Stitch from underarm down to hem.
• Press seams open.

Step 4: Finish the Neckline
• Finish the neckline with bias binding, a facing, or a folded hem, following the 9 cm front neck drop and 0.5 cm back neck drop.
• Understitch if using facing, to keep it from rolling outward.

Step 5: Attach the Sleeves
• With right sides together, match the sleeve cap (14 cm depth) to the armhole, aligning the underarm seams.
• Ease the fullness of the sleeve cap evenly around the curve — do not gather tightly.
• Stitch the armhole seam, then press towards the sleeve.
• Sew the sleeve's underarm seam (matching to the body's side seam), then finish the sleeve hem (13 cm + 13 cm cuff width, if adding a cuff, or simply fold and hem for a plain sleeve).

Step 6: Hem the Blouse
• Fold the bottom hem (based on the 20 cm hip width markers) to your desired length.
• Press and stitch the hem in place — either with a straight stitch or blind hem stitch for a cleaner finish.

Step 7: Final Pressing & Finishing
• Press all seams flat.
• Trim any loose threads.
• Try on the blouse and make any final fit adjustments at the side seams or darts.

Final Tips
• Always make a muslin/toile (test version) first if you're trying this pattern for the first time, to check the fit before cutting your final fabric.
• Since darts shape the bust and waist, take your time pinning and stitching them precisely — this is what gives the blouse its fitted silhouette.
• For stretch or delicate fabrics, use a smaller stitch length and consider using a walking foot for even feeding.
Happy sewing! 🧵✂️